Night Naked: A Climber’s Autobiography
Copyright: 2016, US
Specifications: 1st, 8vo, pp.219, wraps
Nicknamed ‘Monkey’ as a young boy because he loved to climb trees, Loretan put up his first new route by the time he wassixteen and started free soloing the following year. Night Naked, now published in English for the first time, is his autobiography.
His obsession with mountains led him to major ascents in the Andes, Karakorum, and Himalaya. He was the third person to climb all 14 8000ers, but his blitz, with Jean Troillet, up Everest in 1988 via the dangerous Japanese and Hornbein couloirs in the astounding time of 43 hours roundtrip is perhaps his crowning achievement. The ascent was the birth of a new style of alpinism, later termed ‘night naked’: climbing without tent or sleeping bag, bivouacking during the relatively warm afternoon hours, and pushing unroped through the night.