Total Alpinism

A translation of Desmaison’s ‘342 Heures dans les Grandes Jorasses’ and ‘La Montagne a Mains Nues’. Desmaison was a controversial French climber of the 1950’s-60’s who made many daring ascents in the Alps. He climbed a number of new routes including the Direct North Face of Cima Grande, the Freney Pillar of Mont Blanc, and a new route in winter on the Walker Spur of the Grand Jorasses. His partner Serge Gousseault died during the ascent and Desmaison had to be rescued, barely surviving. He was also part of the 1962 Jannu expedition and made great climbs in Peru. Desmaison was involved in several highly publicized conflicts, including the rescue of a German team on the Eigerwand. ‘342 Heures’ is his account of his ascent of the Walker Spur and ‘La Montagne’ was his first book. Quite hard to find.

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