Prelude to Everest: Alexander Kellas, Himalayan Mountaineer

Kellas, who could be considered Scotland’s greatest ever Himalayan mountaineer and one of the foremost in the world during his own lifetime, is today a largely neglected figure. Born in Aberdeen in 1868, there was little in his background or his early life that might have suggested he would become a leading pioneer in the Greater Ranges, exploring and climbing widely in the Sikkim and Garhwal areas, and finally dying on the initial Reconnaissance Expedition to Everest in 1921. This biography restores Kellas to his rightful place in Himalayan mountaineering history, by describing in detail his pioneering work in exploration, his groundbreaking high altitude physiology and detailing his list of Himalayan first ascents. In his day, Kellas had spent more time above 20,000’ feet than anyone and had, unknowingly, established a new summit record when he ascended Pauhunri (23,386’) in 1911, thus eclipsing Tom Longstaff’s ascent of Trisul (23,359’) in 1907.