Dead Lucky: Life After Death on Mount Everest

Hall was one of Australia's best known mountaineers, with a climbing career that spanned three decades, most notably in the Himalaya, Antarctica and the Andes. He had a key role in the first Australian ascent of Everest in 1984, and his account of that expedition, ‘White Limbo’, became a bestseller. In early April 2006 he set off once again for Everest as part of a four-person team attached to a 30-person permit. Five weeks after reaching Base Camp in Tibet, he began his push for the summit. After three days of climbing higher into the oxygenless air, he was blessed with a perfect summit day. For a few minutes, Hall was the highest man on the planet. His Sherpa companions arrived, photos were taken, and the climbers commenced their long descent. Then things began to go horribly wrong. Hall was struck by cerebral oedema in the 'death zone'. Drowsiness quickly became overpowering lethargy, and he collapsed in the snow. Two Sherpas spent hours trying to revive him, but as darkness fell he was pronounced dead. The expedition's leader ordered the Sherpas to descend to save themselves. The news of Hall's death travelled rapidly from mountaineering websites to news media around the world, and by satellite phone to Hall's family in Australia. Early the next day, Dan Mazur, an American guide with two clients and a Sherpa, was startled to find Hall sitting cross-legged on the knife-edged crest of the summit ridge. Hall's first words - 'I imagine you are surprised to see me here' - were a massive understatement. Much was reported in the press about Hall's resurrection, but only he has real insight into what happened, and how he survived that longest night. Also on this permit was Thomas Weber, who was to die on the mountain. The 2006 season was tumultuous with several deaths and questionable ethics. This was Hall’s 8th book and was a strong contender for the 2007 Boardman-Tasker Award. See also Richard Harris’ ‘The Will to Climb’ and Nick Heil’s ‘Dark Summit’.